Saturday, 25 October 2014

Character Development: Sally's Sad Eyes



In preparation for my timed assessment, I have practised how to create Sally's sad looking eyes.  This includes the basic steps on how to create the simple eyeshadow look to accompany her naive and emotional persona, as well as how I created Sally's tears and smudged make up whilst practising at home.

Step by Step:





1. Firstly, prime the eyes, I used a Mac Pro Longwear concealer to do this, as not only does it prime but covers any redness or veins on the eye. 

2. Cover the mobile eyelid with a mixture of the matte cream shade and the shimmery cream shade from the Screen Face Palette using a flat shader brush.  After this, use the mid tone brown from the same palette with a flufflier brush to define the crease. 

3. Take the Kryolan palette, and using a small definer brush, take the warm brown shade and apply in the crease.  This will add darkness and depth. 

4.  To line the top lash line, I used Mac Chromographic Pencil in Black Black.  After I created the line, I used a pencil brush to smudge this out to create a slight smokey effect.  I also took the pencil underneath the eye and smudged this out too.

5. To widen the eye, I lined the waterline with a white eye pencil.

6. Next, I applied a few coats of mascara to my top and bottom lashes (not waterproof though!) and filled in my brows with a dark brown pencil.  I arched my brows more than usual to create that typical Sally Bowles brow.

7. Finally, I wanted to make it look as if my Sally had been crying.  For my timed assessment I would ideally like to use a tear stick to create the tears, and consequently the tears should smudge the make-up.  However, if this doesn't work, I shall ask my partner to use eye drops or a small amount of water to create that smudged effect.

Thursday, 23 October 2014

Artist Research- Ernst Ludwig Kirchner




Ernst Ludwig Kirchner has come to be seen as one of the most talented and influential German Expressionists, he was motivated by the same anxieties that gripped the rest of the German society, making him a very relateable artist during the Wiemar Berlin Era.  Kirchner's aim was 'to eschew traditional academic styles and to create a new mode of artistic expression, forming a "bridge" between classical motifs of the past and the present avant-garde'.  He created his work through using crude lines and a vibrant, unnatural colour palette.







This painting really inspired me when thinking about my Stanislavski's Acting Technique posts, especially when thinking about what my character had been doing before my chosen scene.  The lady that Ernst Ludwig has depicted looks very deflated, she looks sad and down.  To me, these are the exact feelings that Sally would have been feeling.  Kirchner has really portrayed these feeling through his style of painting,  he's used a lot of cold, icy blue tones that could suggest her sad feelings.  The lady also isn't looking directly into the camera, which has given me a few idea for the way I could shoot my character.  As I am aiming to create a insecure, naive version of Sally, when photographing my final looks I could get my model to look away from the camera,  almost giving the idea she can't face the idea of talking about her actions yet. 

Another angle I was thinking of, was to have my model with her hands on her face, looking to the floor with tears running down her face.  Her hands would be placed on her cheeks so that you can still see her eye and lips, the main and most important features of Sally Bowles character. 


Image References:

Image 1: Ernst Ludwig Kirchner - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. [ONLINE] Available at: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ernst_Ludwig_Kirchner. [Accessed 23 October 2014].

Image 2: The "degenerate" work of Ernst Ludwig Kirchner 1880-1938. [ONLINE] Available at: http://bjws.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/nazi-impact-on-ernst-ludwig-kirchner.html. [Accessed 23 October 2014].

Wednesday, 22 October 2014

Studio Sessions: Bobs and Finger Waves

Tools Needed:

Bobbed/ Long Haired Model
Tongs
Paddle Brush
Pintail Comb
Bobby Pins
Heat Protectant
Texturising Spray
Vitapointe Leave in Conditioner
Shine Spray

1. Start off by sitting your model down, then thoroughly brush through their hair with the paddle brush, making sure there are no knots.  It is preferable that your model's hair isn't freshly washed as this will make the hair easier to work with.  However if not, this is where the texturising spray will come in to good use.  While you are brushing the hair, pre heat your curling tongs, a good temperature is around 23.

2. Once brushed through, create a very deep side parting, the parting should be in line with the arch of the brow.  Separate the hair at the front of the head, and the hair towards the back.  We will start to work with the hair at the front, so pin the hair at the back of the head out the way. 

3. The next step is to curl the front sections of your hair, you want the curls to fall forwards, so that the hair will sit nicely around the face. Take a small section of hair and spray with a small amount of heat protectant.  If your client has long hair, wrap the end around the tong so it is neatly in the barrel, laying flat.  Turn your tong towards the head, getting as close to the root as possible, if you are unsure of how close to get to your sitters head, place a comb at the root and rest your tong against that.  Hold the hair around the tongs for around 12 seconds, although if the hair is thick you may want to curl for a little longer, remove the tongs and secure with a sectioning clip to ensure there will be no bumps in the hair.

4. Repeat this process on both sides of the front sections.

5. After this, start to curl the back section.  Start from the bottom of the head, these curls can be tonged in different directions to give volume and definition.  Follow this process, working upwards, still making sure that your sections are small and even and that you are cold setting your girls each time.

6. Once all the hair is curled, leave to set for 5-10 minutes, longer if you have time.  Remove all the clips and then brush through the hair very gently.  The best type of brush to use for this step is a Mason and Pearson, it has particularly soft bristles that will not pull the curl out the hair.  Once brushed through, use a small amount of vitapointe leave in conditioner and work this through the hair with your hands.

7. Loosely gather your hair into a low ponytail and secure it with a scrunchy, again leaving the front sections untouched.  Pull this scrunchy down toward the end of the ponytail until you can loop the hair under. This gives the faux bob plenty of volume.  Roll the hair up and secure the hair with bobby pins and apply hairspray for a secure hold.  You can pull small sections of hair from the crown on the head to cover the looped hair, this hair will be curled, creating a realistic look.

8. To style the front of the hair, take the bigger section, pull down and let it naturally frame the face.  For the smaller section, pin this back.  Some people suit the hair pinned more tightly against the head,  others suit more volume.

9. To finish the style, spritz the hair with some hairspray.








Tuesday, 21 October 2014

Initial Sally Bowles Face Charts




1. My first look incorporates the typical heavy smokey eye that some of the 1920's women used to wear.  I would keep the shadow quite neutral on the top and heavily line the waterline with a black eye kohl, using lashings of mascara to give voluminous, fluttery lashes. The eye make up would be slightly smudged.  I would keep the skin pale using a rich liquid foundation, lightly contour and apply a light pink blush, to just add a flush of colour to the cheeks.  My main feature for this look would be the lips...I would create a red stained lip rather than using full colour payoff from the lipstick, and I would smudge the lipstick around the mouth, ad if Sally has had her face in her hands crying.

2. The second look I created is more of a typical Sally Bowles look.  I would create a heavy smokey eye using lots of browns, purple and blacks with lots of layers of mascara to create that thick lash look.  I'd keep the face pale again, contouring less than my previous look, the blending wouldn't be perfect as I imagine Sally's make up would of been far from perfect at the time.  The brows would be thin and black in colour.  I would add a red/pink blush that would act as the rouge of the 1920s and would finish the look with a deep red lip.  To keep the insecure and emotional theme of my Sally, I would add tears running down the face using a tear stick, this would also leave water marks in the foundation.

3.  My last look, is the look that shows Sally's sadness the most.  Her skin would be pale in colour, the foundation applied far from perfectly.  The face would be slightly contoured with a baby pink blush, just to add a little bit of colour to the face, not her usual reddy/ pink bright cheek as she wouldn't of made much effort here.  The eyeshadow would be neutral consisting of a neutral matte shade and a soft brown to give some definition, with a little bit of eye kohl on the upper lash line and water line.  She would be wearing very minimal mascara, in fact all the mascara she had been wearing previously would be all smudged around her eyes.  Sally would still be wearing her statement red lip however, it just wouldn't be applied as perfectly as usual. 

Sally Bowles Hair Charts

Hair Chart 2- Chosen Style
Hair Chart 1





















These are my Sally Bowles Hair Charts, creating Hair Charts is definitely not my strongest skill, however I tried my hardest to create the right effect of the style on paper.  My First hair chart features Sally with a dark brown coloured hair, the style is very simple, much like her pixie crop in the Cabaret film.  This style would be generally just a very wavy with a strong side parting, both of my designs don't incorporate anything too extravagant, as in my scene, Sally is emotional and drained and wouldn't of made as much effort as she usually would.

My second design, which I have chosen to use for my final design, is much more child like.  Sally is blonde, which I feel portrays innocence well.  The style has a fairly strand side parting, generally curly, with Marcel waves at the front of the head.  On one side of the style, the hair is pulled back away from the face.  I would also like the style to be messy, clipped back with no really neatness and wispy bits of hair across the head.

Stanislavski's Acting Technique- Historical Post 10 & 11

Actioning

For this post, I have taken a look at my scene and chosen an active verb for my character. My next step is to begin to think about how I will translate that in make-up and hair?

' TO REGRET'
  • The verb I have chosen from Act Two, Scene Six of the Cabaret Script is 'to regret'.  To regret is to feel sorrow or remorse for (an act, fault, disappointment, etc.) or to think of with a sense of loss.  Within the scene, I feel like the word regret reflects Sally and Cliffs emotions perfectly.    Sally tells Cliff that "My one regret is I honestly believe you'd have been a wonderful father",  suggesting that Sally feels awful for taking an exciting opportunity away from Cliff, the chance for him to be a father.
  • Regret is definitely the key emotion throughout the final few scenes of the script.  With regards to portraying the my chosen verb through make-up,  I would apply less than you would usually see Sally wearing.  I wouldn't apply any eyelashes to my Sally Bowles model, instead I would apply a very neutral eye with a few coats of mascara on the natural lashes, but I would create a smudged effect around the eye, to show that Sally had been crying.  I would also add a tear falling from the eyes.  As I have said previously,  I would still keep a red lip which connotes that Sally will always be a showgirl at heart, but would create more of a stained look, as if Sally had been wearing the lipstick for a long time.  The hair would be still polished but messier than usual.
  • Looking through the scene, the first active verb I would attribute to my character is 'to spoil' something.  Sally may be seen to have spoilt a great opportunity for Cliff and herself by her actions, although in reality she may have made the right decision based on her lifestyle at the time.  Another verb I would use is 'to hold',  I would use it in the sense of Cliff and Sally being held together as a couple,  I think both characters are unsure of their future together and what there is left to hold them together.  The last verb that I though of was 'to reach',  at the end of y chosen scene Sally tries to reach out to Cliff, asking him to stay, as well as Cliff reaching out to Sally, asking her to go to America with him.  They are both reaching out to each other, hoping that one of them will make a decision so that they can stay together. 

· 

Sunday, 19 October 2014

Studio Sessions: Prepping the hair for Wig Application

Tools Needed:

Paddle Brush
Pintail Coms
Plenty of different style wigs
The top of a pair of tights 
Bobby Pins
Dry Shampoo/ Wax (If hair is freshly washed)

1. Sit your model down, then thoroughly brush through their hair with the paddle brush, making sure there are no knots in the hair.

2. Create a centre parting with your pintail comb all the way through the hair, going from the crown all the way down the back of the head.  This will create two even sections of hair for you to French Plait. 

3. Tightly French Plait these two sections of hair, directing the hair downwards.

4. Wrap the plaits around each side of the head, pinning them against the top of each sides french plait with some bobby pins.

5. Next, apply the tights over the head.  You will need to get your model to do 'bunny ears' (model holds fingers up against hairline to create what looks like bunny ears), while they are doing this pull the tights over the head, making sure all the hair is covered. 

6. Finally apply your 'scratch wigs', again when you pull the wig over the head, ask your model to 'bunny ears'.  Adjust the wig until it is in the perfect position.

7. Make sure you try a variety of wigs on, as each colour and style of wig will change how a person looks.  Take into account how it changes the skin tone, face shape etc. 




'Bunny Ears'

Me once the cap had been applied.


I felt like this wig really aged me, the dark colour made my skin look much paler than usual and the structured shape really made my features a lot more defined.











Anita Berber Continuity Images

Image 1


Image 2:


Saturday, 18 October 2014

Hair in the 1920's-1930's

The Bob

The 1920s and 1930s saw a major change in women's hairstyling, long flowing locks were cut off to short sophisticated bobs.  These changes all started with professional ballroom dancer Irene Castle in 1915 when she had her long locks cut into a bob for convenience. The bob was soon known as the castle bob or the 3/4 bob.


Image Credit: The Hairstyles That Defined American Culture in Every Decade - Mic. [ONLINE] Available at: http://mic.com/articles/90259/the-hairstyles-that-defined-american-culture-in-every-decade. [Accessed 18 October 2014].

The 1920s bob was a simple one length blunt cut that was in-line with the bottom of the ears.  The style was often worn with a full fringe, or styled away from the face.

Marcel Waves and Pin Curls


Image Credit: 2. Finger Waves - 8 Retro Hairstyles to Try out ... → Hair. [ONLINE] Available at: http://hair.allwomenstalk.com/retro-hairstyles-to-try-out/2/. [Accessed 18 October 2014].

Finger wave hairstyles enjoyed popularity in the 1920s and 1930s. They’re called finger waves because originally, obtaining the look involved pinching hair between the fingers while wet and combing in alternating directions before setting the hairstyle. The look is quite soft and feminine which took away from the harshness of the blunt bob.


Image Credit: Pin Curls - 7 Simple and Stylish Updos for Curly Hair ... → Hair. [ONLINE] Available at: http://hair.allwomenstalk.com/simple-and-stylish-updos-for-curly-hair/3/. [Accessed 18 October 2014].

Pin curls are soft waves that frame the face and create a sexy glamorous style. They would have been styled and sculpted to perfection, these added an elegant and sultry touch to any hairstyle.




Friday, 17 October 2014

Anita Berber


Anita Berber was Weimar Germany's decadent dancer extraordinaire.  Berber influences our style of applying make up greatly for this project, as she lived during the Weimar period. Everybody knew about her being Berlin's most extraordinary Cabaret dancer.
By the age of 16, she had moved to Berlin and made her debut. By 1918 she was working in film, and she began dancing nude in 1919.  Her drug addiction and her bisexual relationships were also a big topic of conversation in Weimar Berlin.

During my research I found a quote on the internet describing Anita Berber's physical appearance :

"She wore heavy dancer’s make-up, which on the black-and-white photos and films of the time came across as jet black lipstick painted across the heart-shaped part of her skinny lips, and charcoaled eyes."


Image Credit: Anita Berber | Cabaret Berlin. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.cabaret-berlin.com/?p=365. [Accessed 18 October 2014].

Anita's Legacy now revolves around a 1987 film by Rosa von Praunheim titled Anita - Tänze des Lasters centers around the life of Anita Berber.




References:
Anita Berber quote:  Anita Berber | Cabaret Berlin. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.cabaret-berlin.com/?p=365. [Accessed 18 October 2014].

Colour Symbolism in the film Cabaret (The Opening Scene)

Having recently watched the film Cabaret, colour is used to symbolise many different things. There is a wide range of colours that show the viewer what the general emotion of the scene is, how a character is feeling and even certain colours worn by a character symbolise certains traits they hold.  In some cases, colours also tell the audience what will happen later in the movie.

The first colours that appeared in the film, to me were quite dull, mostly because of Brians very prim and proper clothing that mostly consisted of muted browns, greys and blues.  This was very reflective of his initial very understated and quiet personality.

However, another colour noticed predominately in the opening scenes of the film was the colour red.  As Brian is arriving in Berlin, there are many examples of the colour red, people around him are wearing different shades of red clothing, or there are objects that are coloured red surrounding him.  In some cases red stands for danger, which may apply to Brian as he is going to live in a completely knew and strange place, different from the sheltered life he was living before.  However, some people also say red stands for love and romance, maybe this is telling us as viewers that this is the city where Brian is going to find love with Sally Bowles.  Sally Bowles also wears red lipstick a lot, suggesting again that Brian is going to experience something new and exciting with Sally.



Image Credit: List of Shame - Continuing Series: Cabaret (1972) | Public Transportation Snob. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.ptsnob.com/2012/10/list-of-shame-marathon-continuing.html. [Accessed 10 October 2014].

Sally Bowles Moodboard



Here I have created a moodbaord, consisting of some ideas and inspiration to help me design and style my Sally Bowles character.  My Sally is very emotional and vulnerable, so I would like to incorporate tears and smudged make up into my design.  Sally would ideally have very neutral eyes, but would still be sporting a red lip.  The hairstyle could be messy, still polished but with wispy hair.  For the final touches, she could be wearing a tatty old trench coat, smoking a cigarette from her long cigarette holder...when doing so, her nails would be chipped to show she has lost interest in her appearance for a while.

Wednesday, 15 October 2014

Stanislavski's Acting Technique- Historical Post 8 & 9

Why does Sally want it NOW and what will happen if she doesn't get it?


  • Sally has always wanted to be a star, she loves the idea of stardom and she is portrayed as quite an attention seeker.  However, Sally wants stability now too because its something that Sally has never, ever had.  She's at a point in her life when she doesn't know what she wants to do, whether she should go to America with Cliff and stop her party lifestyle, or stay at the Kit Kat Club as a showgirl, because she doesn't know how to do anything different.  Seeing as there is no-one that Sally is really close enough to, to help her make a decision of what she wants in the future, she feels that she has to make this decision herself.  She isn't getting any major opportunities when it comes to her career either, which would confuse her even more.
  • If Sally wasn't to find some sort of stability within her life and career, I feel as if her showgirl ways would become out of control.  Although she would always have a personal income from dancing at the Kit Kat Club, I feel it would be her mentality that would suffer.  At first, I'm sure being a showgirl would be fun, but I believe it would all become a bit too overwhelming.  She can't be a showgirl forever, neither can she keep falling into the arms of several different wealthy men. 

Stanislavski's Acting Technique- Historical Post 6 & 7

What does Sally want and why does she want it?

  • At first, we see Sally Bowles as a working class show girl who wants to make it big in the industry.  Sally may well want to be successful but for my interpretation, my character of Sally Bowles also wants stability in her life, but seems scared of stepping out from her showgirl facade.  She has never really settled and lived in one place, had a family that is always there for her or a man that has promised to love her always.  In Christopher Isherwood's Book,  when Brian returns home to Sally after being rejected by her father, he finds Sally sitting in the dark,  smoking her life away and feeling depressed because her father has stood her up. Sally sobs that while her father tries to love her, he simply does not care and thinks she is "nothing." Although Brian says he loves her dearly, she feels like she is a burden on him, showing that really she isn't that confident.
  • In Christopher Isherwood's novel Sally say of herself “I believe I’m a sort of Ideal Woman, if you know what I mean. I’m the sort of woman who can take men away from their wives, but I could never keep anybody for very long. And that’s because I’m the type which every man imagines he wants, until he gets me; and then he finds he doesn’t really, after all.”.  I imagine that this has always been her state of mind, until she met Cliff.
  • In the film, it is clear that Sally loves her job as a showgirl, she has a passion for dancing and singing, but it can get a bit tedious constantly having to be someone that she's not.  She wants to be a big movie star, but she doesn't ever look for opportunities, she waits for them to come to her, which most of the time doesn't happen.  She has realised that although she is still young and has her whole life ahead of her, she wants to share her life with someone that loves her for who she is underneath all the heavy make up, provocative clothes and outgoing personality but however much she tries, she can't seem to step out of her comfort zone, she feels like she is stuck in Berlin forever.  

Stanislavski's Acting Technique- Historical Post 5


Where has my character just come from?
  • After Sally's abortion, I feel like she would have needed some time to herself before returning to Cliff.  When I think of Sally, I really notice her vulnerability, so to me she would have been sitting in a small cafe/bar thinking that one day she would love to become a mum, she just feels that it would ruin her showgirl persona, which she believes is her only source of income. 
  • The walls of the cafe/bar would be unpainted with just the bricks showing and the table would be cluttered with a small black handbag, her possessions (powder, lipstick, cigarette's) and bottles.  She would have a cigarette in her hand, in her long cigarette holder, smoking very slowly, as if she's having a long, hard think about her life and how her decision will effect Cliff.  She would be thinking about how the front she always has to put on, is becoming draining, and that sometimes she just wants to be herself and to tell people that actually, she's not okay and that there are things in her life that need fixing.  This would make her upset, so she would have a tear running down her face.  This would be the first time throughout the script that we see Sally in a real state of sadness.

Stanislavski's Acting Technique- Historical Post 4

When is the scene? What is the season? Time of day?

When re-creating the scene in my head, I would describe the time of year as a cold, crisp winters evening in November of 1932.  It would only be early evening however, so the sun would be slowly setting.  There would be no snow, but it would be frosty, and you would be able to see the air you breathe in the cold air outside.  If you were to look out the window, the street lamps would be lighting up the streets, but the streets would feel empty because of the political troubles.  However if you were to look out Cliff's window, the occasional Berlin citizen would walk past wearing long, warm coats to keep them warm, and maybe a flat cap if it was a man.  Sally would be dressed in a more sophisticated manner than you would find her when she was on stage, she'd be wearing tights to keep her legs warm and a long, tatty overcoat, done up to the top.  Although, not her fur coat as she would have just sold this to pay for the abortion of her baby.  


Image Credit: Mystery - Part 1 (Vogue Jacket V8940) - | Design Closeup . [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.design-closeup.com/1920s-murder-mystery-part-1-vogue-jacket-v8940/. [Accessed 15 October 2014].


Image Credit:  Pinterest. 2014. Pin by Theresa Steele on A.1.93. 1930's Street Style | Pinterest. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.pinterest.com/pin/554083560376667666/. [Accessed 15 October 2014].

Tuesday, 14 October 2014

Visual Moodboard- what would have my chosen scene looked like?




  • I have previously described what I imagine my chosen scene would have looked like in a previous post ('Stanislavski's Acting Techniques- Historical Post 2 & 3'), however I feel like some visual will really help the audience to imagine just exactly what it would have looked like, giving them a more personal feel, as if they were actually there at the time. 
  • The middle image of the mood board pictures exactly how I would have imagined Cliff's bedroom to look.  The 1920's was the heyday for interior design, the decade was known for its decadence, which consequently plunged much of Europe into economic depression.  The room is very cluttered, full of furniture and Sally's belongings...jewellery, make up and hair brushes.  The furniture is extravagant, with added touches of opulence with items such as tortoiseshell cigarette boxes.
  • The walls would be plain and free from decorative plasterwork, but instead covered in photographs. 
  • The image of the chair shows how there would be clothes draped over most of the furniture, Cliff was in a rush to pack a suitcase, so the clothes he dismissed were chucked anywhere where there was space.
  • Finally, the image in the bottom, right corner shows the scene outside Cliff's window.  The streets would be generally quiet, however you would have the occasional group of citizens walk past wearing long coats and hats.

Stanislavski's Acting Technique- Historical Post 2 & 3

What scene was my character in?
  • My chosen scene would be at a time when you can see Sally's insecurities, to me, her insecurities are portrayed fairly well in Act Two, Scene Six of the Cabaret Script.  The scene is in Cliffs Room, he is frantically packing a suitcase for himself and Sally, chucking clothes into the suitcase with no care.  Cliff feels like he would be able to give Sally a better life in America, but Sally seems to be afraid of such a big change, she is almost portrayed like a child that needs guidance from an adult.  When Sally arrives back to the room, she has to break the news that she has just had an abortion, although she feels dreadfully guilty as she believes that Cliff would have been a "wonderful father".  What made me want to explore this scene further is that Joe Masteroff actually describes Sally crying in this scene, showing that she does have some sort of emotion. 
  • During the scene, the air would be smokey and the lights would be dim in Cliffs Room,  with a slow cabaret style song playing in the background.  The old fashioned, brown wooden furniture would be draped with Cliff and Sally's clothes, as he was flinging clothes around, quickly trying to decide what he needed to pack before Sally came home.  The atmosphere would change when Sally entered the room, her expressions and body language would show that Sally is anxious about telling Cliff.



Image Credit: [ONLINE] Available at: http://natefakes.wordpress.com/2011/11/04/abusive-toward-my-smoke-alarm-or-does-it-abuse-me/. [Accessed 14 October 2014].

References:

Christopher Isherwood (1939). Goodbye to Berlin. Vintage Classics; New Ed edition.

Joe Masteroff, 1999. Cabaret: The Illustrated Book and Lyrics. First Edition Edition. Newmarket Press.

Stanislavski's Acting Technique- Historical Post 1

Who is my character? 

Sally Bowles

The historical character I have decided to create for this project is Sally Bowles.  Now I know Sally Bowles will be a character chosen by many of us, but I aim to create a unique interpretation of Sally, as there is so much information to build on and each individual has a different idea of Sally's look and persona. 

There are many descriptions of Sally Bowles, and most of them state the same thing, that Sally is a 19 year old actress and cabaret singer who has come to Berlin with dreams of stardom.  However, Sally is made to look different in each of the adaptations I have researched.

Overview of Sally Bowles Character:

"Sally Bowles is a fictional character from the novels of Christopher Isherwood “Mr Norris Changes Trains” and “Goodbye To Berlin” (also known as The Berlin Diaries)  published in 1935 and 1939.  She is a 19 yr old English/ American actress and cabaret singer.  He also adds, “She had a surprisingly deep, husky voice. She sang badly, without any expression, her hands hanging down at her sides – yet her performance was, in its own way, effective because of her startling appearance and her air of not caring a curse of what people thought of her”.

Reference:  Sally Bowles | Cabaret Berlin. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.cabaret-berlin.com/?p=100. [Accessed 14 October 2014].


Image Credit: Liza Minnelli STEPPING OUT.... [ONLINE] Available at: http://steppingoutliza.blogspot.co.uk/search?updated-max=2014-07-31T13:43:00-07:00. [Accessed 14 October 2014].


Before I watched Cabaret, I first read the script.  For the most part, Sally always seems a little agitated but always seems to have an outgoing personality. From the script I got the impression that Sally was quite a confident and loud character also, however my impression of her soon changed when I watched the film.  After watching the film, I really noticed the softer side to her personality, she seemed very naive to the outside world and her confident persona just seemed like a front to fool the people around her. 

I was unsure as to what Sally was exactly styled like in the script and in Christopher Isherwood's book, as of course there were no visual references.  However there are certain quotes that suggest Sally wore "brilliant cherry lips" and "emerald green nails".  Similarly, at the beginning of the film, her make up is very bold and bright.  She wears colourful eyeshadow consisting of greens and purples and she frequently wears a red lip which reflects the idea that the colourful make up is their to try and portray an outgoing and unusual woman.  However as the film goes on, we see her make up change which reflects her changing persona.  When  Sally gets an abortion and also when she is rejected by her father, Sally seems to have much more of a bare and natural face.  She is no longer dressed in her hot pants and rather revealing leotard, but instead is wearing very neutral clothes that cover up her body a lot more than usual.  This shows that Sally isn't the confident girl that she first comes across as but instead is a broken women underneath.

My idea is to make Sally a little more toned down than we see her in Cabaret, but maybe keep one of the key, bold features for us to remember her showgirl persona.

References:

Christopher Isherwood (1939). Goodbye to Berlin. Vintage Classics; New Ed edition.


Sunday, 12 October 2014

Make Up in the 1920's-1930's

During the 1930's, there was no bolder way to express your femininity than with make-up. In the early 30's women often had quite a pale complexion, their skin often looked white and waxen or very porcelain with a touch of pink to give the look some life.  Therefore powders were applied in rich ivory colours too.  Blushes became ever so popular applied during daytime and nightie, with cream rouges becoming popular, followed by powder to intensify the colour. 


Image Credit: [ONLINE] Available at: http://vintagemakeupguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/marlene-dietrich-1930s-makeup-look.jpg. [Accessed 12 October 2014].


Gone were the heavy kohl eyes from the 1920's, instead pencil thin eyebrows and bold, red lips became the statement look.  Mascara was now a necessity in a make-up kit too.  Eye-shadows became more rounded with sweeping lines outwards to enlarge the eye, and cut creases were loved by many women.  Colours like blue, green and violet were popular among many of the women during the era. 

The lips were made to look a little more thinned out, with extra definition on the upper lip in the evenings for that Rosebud effect.  This replaced the bow shape from previous years.  The most popular colours were dark reds, maroons and raspberry tones.


Image Credit: 1930s Look :: vintage makeup guide. [ONLINE] Available at: http://vintagemakeupguide.com/1930s-look/. [Accessed 12 October 2014].

Saturday, 11 October 2014

Research- 'Christopher and his Kind'


Image Credit:  David Allcock » CHRISTOPHER AND HIS KIND. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.davidallcock.com/wp/projects/christopher-and-his-kind/. [Accessed 11 October 2014].

As part of our research to help us choose and develop a character from the Cabaret Script, I looked further into Isherwood's experience in Berlin, by watching the film 'Christopher and his Kind'.  It was based on Isherwood’s memoir of his time in Berlin in the early 1930s.  Isherwood followed his friend, the poet WH Auden (Pip Carter), to Berlin, where he discovered the spirit of sexual freedom in a cellar bar called the Cosy Corner, much like the Kit Kat Club in Cabaret.  Christopher and His Kind didn’t have Sally Bowles, but instead the person who had inspired her, Isherwood’s friend Jean Ross.

- Christopher and his Kind is very similar to Goodbye to Berlin and Cabaret, and as are the characters.  Christopher mirrors Bryan, Jean mirrors Sally Bowles and Fraulein Thurua is very similar to Fraulein Schneider.

- We thought Cabaret was sexual, well this film takes it to another level.  We learn again that sexual activity was very important to the men and women of the era, homosexuality is also explored in 'Christopher and his Kind'.

- Christopher and His Kind, as well as Cabaret capture a place and a time in a place of great transition.  We see the dying streets of the Wiemar Republic and the fascist fist of the Nazis.  The philosophical landlady, Fraulein Thurua tries to shrug off the Nazis’ grab for power.

- During these scenes,  the colour use represents the unhappiness of the Berlin citizens and the poverty they're facing; dull, gloomy tones of brown symbolise the working class community, where as richer colours like red are used to represent the upper class.

- Jean Ross' makeup is very similar to that of Sally Bowles, but almost more of a contemporary twist on it. The eyes are dark and smokey, and red lips were a necessity.  Instead of the typical cut crease which I noticed in Cabaret, Jean Ross' eyeshadow is more blended, a typical fashion based smokey look.

- The show girls are again dressed in extravagant costumes, wearing headpieces, jewels and feather boas.  

- Christopher and His Kind showed us the real trials and tribulations of Weimar Berlin in the 1930's.  It not only gave me an insight into the seediness of Berlin at the time, but really shows us what the characters lives were like at the time, helping us to further build a persona of our chosen character. 

Friday, 10 October 2014

Make Up Studio: Re-creating an Otto Dix Painting using Supra Colour



Otto Dix Image Credit: oy Machine: I found an OTTO DIX painting.... [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.toymachine.com/newspost/1617/i+found+an+otto+dix+painting/. [Accessed 10 October 2014].

Avant Garde Art represented a pushing of the boundaries of what was accepted as ‘normal’.  All forms of art (visual, literary, musical, theatrical) were used to promote radical, social, political and economic reforms. Weimar Germany had a lively avant-garde art scene.

In our practical this week, we were asked to create our own version of an Otto Dix Avant Garde style painting.  To create the look we used supra colour, supra colour is a thicker texture than the aqua colour we use last week,  however it's great to use when re-creating a look from a painting as you can really layer the colours to create different colours and textures. 

Step by Step Process

  1. I started off by making sure my model had a clean, well moisturised face.  As supra colour is quite a heavy product, it can tend to accentuate dry patches.
  2. I then took the white shade, mixed with a little bit of grey and a skin coloured shade to create a base colour.  Once I was happy with the colour, I applied this over the face with a foundation brush, going slightly down the neck and onto the ears.
  3. Next I focused on the dark colours around the eye and in the contours of the face.  I first took a grey shade and started to place this under the eye with a small, dense brush, I blended this out slightly with a fluffier brush as I went along, but added more product to intensify again.  The key is to blend the product so there are no harsh lines.  I took this product quite far down under the eye to really create a tired look.
  4. I also took the grey colour under the jawline, round the temples and under the cheekbones.  This will define the  face and make it look more sunken in.
  5. Next, I took a purple/red shade and again using a small dense brush, placed this under the eye also.  With the purple shade, I placed this right underneath the eye, not taking it as far down as the grey.  This will start to create an almost bruised like effect, but will help to add to the ill looking features. 
  6. I also took a yellow shade over the eyelids and added the purple shade around the tear duct area.
  7. To complete the look, I added the circle around the eye and added a deep rep lip.

Tuesday, 7 October 2014

Research for Seema's Seminar- Points to think about after watching 'Cabaret'

What characteristics define your choice of character?

After researching different aspects of Cabaret, Goodbye to Berlin and Christopher and his Kind, at the moment, my two chosen characters are Sally Bowles and Fraulein Kost.  According to Isherwood, the famous novelist, “She had a surprisingly deep, husky voice. She sang badly, without any expression, her hands hanging down at her sides – yet her performance was, in its own way, effective because of her startling appearance and her air of not caring a curse of what people thought of her,” - Christopher Isherwood.  To me she came across as a particularly confident character, but in some ways, I think this is just a persona she holds to fool the public.  Her look is very severe, quite sharp and consists of block colours.  Her hair is one shade of black, her eyeshadow is bold and she always wears a red lip.

Fraulein Kost earns 
money 
by 
offering 
favours 
to 
sailors
, she exhibit
s a strong 
sexual
 and
commanding 
nature.  We do not see much of Kost in Cabaret, however I imagine her to be a little more toned down than Sally, with less heavy make up and softer hair.


What knowledge of the period did the designer consider to be able to develop these characters?

Sally Bowles in the classic musical Cabaret was a poster girl for divine decadence, from the tips of her green manicured nails to her heavy kohl rimmed eyes, fluttering eyelashes, perfect bob and Twenties flapper styling.   Although released in 1972, Cabaret is set during the 1930’s.  The pale powdered skin, heavy black eyes and red lips are all very true to the era, although I did notice some white eyeliner in the water line on many of the showgirls, which lends itself to a sixties style.

According to your research so far, do you feel that the character designs in the film are appropriate? 

In my opinion, the styling of the showgirls and female characters in Cabaret is not exactly what i'd call a 1930's style.  In the thirties,  women wore dresses and kept their hair close to their head. Fur was in and so were floral patterns.  The only female character I notice wearing a floral pattern is Fraulein Scnheider, and she is much older than the other females.  Sally wore a bowler hat, a tailored halter neck waistcoat with a plunging neckline, mini hot pants with a sparkly detail, suspenders and the heels...this is definitely appropriate for her character, just not appropriate for the fashion styling of the time.

Which techniques were used to create the hair and make up?

During the 1930's, there was no bolder way to express your femininity than with make-up. In the early 30's women often had quite a pale complexion, their skin often looked white and waxen or very porcelain with a touch of pink to give the look some life.  Therefore powders were applied in rich ivory colours too.  Blushes became ever so popular applied during daytime and night time, with cream rouges becoming popular, followed by powder to intensify the colour.   Women wore pencil thin eyebrows and bold, red lips became the statement look.  Mascara was now a necessity in a make-up kit too.  Sally also wore heavy eye kohl, just like the women of the 1920s.  The showgirls hair was often cut into short, sharp bobs which set them apart from other women of the time.

Comment upon the colour palette of the film?

The colour palette in Cabaret varied quite a lot depending on the location of the scene.  The colours used in the scenes when they were travelling the Berlin streets seem to represent the unhappiness of the Berlin citizens and the poverty they're facing; dull, gloomy tones of brown symbolise the working class community, where as richer colours like red and purple are used to represent the upper class.


Sunday, 5 October 2014

Make Up Studio: Abstract Painting Style Make Up

During our first practical session with Lottie we were asked to create an abstract painting style make up on the face.  We were shown a few pictures for inspiration, then we were given chance to re-create our own looks.  The aim of this exercise was to experiment with colours, shapes and textures.  Below are a few of the kinds of images we took example from:




Image Credits: 

Image 1: Otto Dix - Catalog Paintings. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.ottodix.org/index/catalog-paintings. [Accessed 05 October 2014].

Image 2:  Fine Art | Sunlight - abstract face painting by Olga Rykova. [ONLINE] Available at: http://olgarykova.com/fine-art/sunlight. [Accessed 05 October 2014].

As you can see in the pictures above, the faces and the features on the faces have been created using different different textures and colours.  These textures have probably been created by using different tools such as different size brushes, sponges, fingertips etc.  The artists have also used colour very well, using darker colours in the hollows of the face and lighter colours on the high points, where light would naturally hit the face.  

These images are my take on Abstract Painting Style Make Up, I chose to use the colours red, white, blue and a metallic silver. 






To create this look, I opted for using different sized Make Up brushes, as well as a brow brush to give another texture.  I took ideas from a normal beauty Make Up, but used these ideas to create a unique look.  Using blue and red as my 'contour' colours, I placed these around the cheekbones, under the jawline and underneath the eye.  Then using white and silver together, I placed these on the top of the cheekbones, on the chin and right on the tip of the nose.  I enjoyed creating this look as it really gives you a chance to experiment using the face as a completely blank canvas, and shows how different textures help to create an abstract yet still pretty look to the face.

Friday, 3 October 2014

Art in Berlin

Despite its upheaval, Weimar Germany was at the forefront of new styles and movements in art and design.  Weimar artists often incorporated their own ideas which reflected the conditions and attitudes of the time. This artistic revolution did not please everyone. The traditionalists in Germany hated Weimar art; they thought it was decadent, frivolous and pointless.

Otto Dix

Wilhelm Heinrich Otto Dix was a German painter and printmaker, noted for his ruthless and harshly realistic depictions of Weimar society and the brutality of war. Along with George Grosz, he is widely considered one of the most important artists of the Neue Sachlichkeit.



Image Credit: Otto Dix | The Skat Players - Card Playing War Invalids (1920) | Artsy. [ONLINE] Available at: https://artsy.net/artwork/otto-dix-the-skat-players-card-playing-war-invalids. [Accessed 03 October 2014].

In this painting, three German officers are portrayed, all with limbs missing.  Two of them miss legs altogether and the one on the left uses his remaining leg to hold his cards, since he’s missing a hand.  Such figures would have been a common sight in Germany in the 1920s, as they were across Europe, which reflects the economic and political downfall in Berlin at the time.  The Wiemar Republic was a time of denial–people used the arts, such as Cabaret, to look away from realities of everyday life, that were painful for many to witness but Otto Dix refused to look away from all of this.  The colours of the painting are dull and cold, which may reflect Dix' coldness and hatred towards these men, who often pointed many men living in Berlin to their deaths.  To me Otto Dix' paintings, including colour and materials really represent the awful state Germany was in.  All three men in this photo are all horribly deformed and scarred, just like the Wiemar Republic and the citizens who lived in Berlin at the time. 

George Grosz

German painter George Grosz was born in Berlin in 1893. His father died when he was eight years of age and his mother moved to the Pomeranian town of Stolp.  It was here that George attended weekly drawing classes.  At the age of sixteen he went to the Dresden Academy of Fine Arts and remained there for two years before moving to the Berlin College of Arts.

The Pillars of Society:


Image Credit: The Pillars of Society by George Grosz | my daily art display. [ONLINE] Available at: http://mydailyartdisplay.wordpress.com/2011/01/22/the-pillars-of-society-by-george-grosz-3/. [Accessed 03 October 2014].


This particular painting by George Grosz named 'The Pillars of Society',  is a deeply sarcastic portrait of the German elite classes who supported Fascism.  Like many of his and other artists of the time, his work connoted what he thought was the corrupt society of Germany.  In the painting we can see four main characters, all representing a grotesque and disrespected figure of the era,   through the windows we can see the city in flames, chaos is reigning.  Again this painting seems to be very dull in colour.  In 1921, Grosz offered this advice to artists; "Come out of your rooms, even if you find it an effort, pull down your individual barriers, let yourselves be caught up by the ideas of working people and help them in the struggle against a corrupt society.".  This is what is most inspiring about these artists in my opinion...they weren't afraid to step out into the real world, to offer words of advice, paint the world in a realistic way and even in such a corrupt society, took time to enjoy themselves in the form of art.

Thursday, 2 October 2014

Make Up and Hair Design for TV and Film- Introduction (Wiemar Berlin)

To start our Second Year of studying as Make Up and Hair Design students, our first project for Make Up and Hair Design for TV and Film will be based around Cabaret.  To help us kick start our research for this project, we have been encouraged to read 'Goodbye to Berlin' by Christopher Isherwood.  Goodbye to Berlin is a 1939 novel set in Wiemar Germany,  the book is divided into six sections. A Berlin Diary of Isherwood’s initial experiences in a boarding house in Berlin, whilst in Berlin he became involved with many different men and women: the caring landlady, Fraulein. Schroeder; and Sally Bowles, a young Englishwoman who sings in the local cabaret.  Many years after Isherwood's novel was published, the novel was adapted into a Broadway play called I Am a Camera by John Van Druten (1951), years after this, the book was adapted again into the Tony Award-winning musical Cabaret (1966) which was based upon the play previously mentioned.

1920s Berlin was a city of many social contrasts. While a large part of the population continued to struggle with high unemployment and deprivations in the aftermath of World War I, the upper class of society, and a growing middle class, gradually rediscovered prosperity and turned Berlin into a cosmopolitan city.

Surprisingly, I have never watched the film Cabaret before, but I have read the script.  The musical is set in 1931 Berlin as the Nazis are rising to power, it is based around the Kat Klub, and focuses a lot on the 19-year-old English cabaret performer Sally Bowles and her relationship with the young American writer Cliff Bradshaw.  I am looking forward to watching Cabaret in class next week, as it will give me a chance to see how the film will differ from the script, as when reading a script you often create your own ideas of what you believe characters and scenarios will look like. 

To help us create a better understanding of 1930s Wiemar Berlin we were also asked to read Goodbye to Berlin by Christopher Isherwood.  I had not yet read this book, and at the moment I am only a few chapters through.  However, what I find really intriguing so far is that Christopher Isherwood has used his own experiences in Wiemar Berlin as a basis for this novel, which in my opinion helps to really give you a feel of what Berlin was like back then.  In Wiemar Berlin there was a genuine attempt to create a perfect democratic country, a bill of rights guaranteed every German citizen freedom of speech and religion, and equality under the law, so living in Berlin at this time would  have definitely been interesting.  A creative renaissance also rose out of this period of upheaval. Literature, poetry, film, painting, opera and theatre all broke astonishing new ground. Berlin became a hotbed of creative activity.  In my opinion, from reading the script, Cabaret shows an interesting and sad way that society can pay for an individuals escape from reality. The characters from the film demonstrate to the viewer how the people of Berlin were desperately trying to escape from reality.

This semester, I am looking forward to creating some really abstract and interesting period make up looks with a modern twist, but most of all creating a meaning behind these looks.  Having completed the summer project, I have noticed how much the use of colour helps to shape a look, scene, story etc.     I watched the film 'Memoirs of a Geisha' and noticed just how much colour helps to create a certain mood.


This is one of the last scenes of the film and one of many examples, it is definitely one of the more cheerful scenes also.  Chiyo is spending time with 'The Chairman', the man who gave her the opportunity to become and Geisha, who she has also fallen in love with.  Not only is Chiyo dressed in pastel colours, which adds a light touch to the scene, she is also wearing make up, creating a more feminine look to the once young, dirty servant.  As for the background, the pink blossom tree adds a gentle reminder that this scene is  one of happiness.

Finally, I'm a little nervous about getting my head around 1930's Berlin and why this would effect the German Citizens style, as this is an area that I've never looked into, however with lots of research I feel I can build a better understanding.